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MATERIAL MATTERS

Recipes

Recipes Wool Max Canvas

ふわふわ、トロトロ、パリッと。
同じ素材から生まれたウエアも
ものづくりの工夫によって
驚くほど違う表情を見せます。

風通しがよく、吸湿性や消臭抗菌に優れた
ウールは、冬は暖かく夏は涼しい機能素材。
今季ラインナップする夏のウールを
ものづくりの現場から紐解きます。

Photography by Misa Asanuma
Edit and text by kontakt
Spring Summer 2023

Recipes

傘いらずのウールキャンバス

Ingredients
Raw material:Wool
Country of origin:Australia
Breed of sheep:Australian Merino
Number of processes:15
Production period:5 months
Serve:Coat & Blouson

ウールで織り上げるキャンバス地は、コットンとは異なる特有の上品さとハリが特徴。限界まで高密度に織り上げられた生地は水をも弾き、少しの雨なら傘いらず。そして上質なウールだからこそ出せる、しなやかさも備えています。

Key Method

1.高密度の織り
トートバッグやスニーカーで使われるキャンバス織りは、生地の強度を上げるためのいわば無骨な織り方。そのキャンバス織りを繊細かつ細いウール糸で高密に織ります。

Recipes
Recipes

2. プレス
織りあがったウールキャンバス地にさらにハリを与えるため圧力釜のような大きい窯に入れてプレス。シャツに強めにアイロンを当ててパリッとさせるようなイメージ。プレスが強すぎると光りすぎてしまうため、絶妙な塩梅を探っていきます。

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3. コーティング
最後に液剤で撥水加工を施します。髪にリンスをするように、布にコーティングをすることでより表面にはハリが出て、そして水も弾くようになります。

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Recipes
Recipes
Recipes
Recipes

Recipes Wool Max Canvas

Fluffy, thick and crispy.
Garments made from one material
can have a surprisingly different look and feel
thanks to the ingenuity of the manufacturing process.

Airy, hygroscopic, deodorant and antibacterial.
Wool is a functional material that is warm in winter and cool in summer.
The summer wool line-up for this season is unraveled from the manufacturing field.

Photography by Misa Asanuma
Edit and text by kontakt
Spring Summer 2023

Recipes

Water-repellent wool canvas

Ingredients
Raw material:Wool
Country of origin:Australia
Breed of sheep:Australian Merino
Number of processes:15
Production period:5 months
Serve:Coat & Blouson

Canvas woven from wool has a unique elegance and bounce that differ from cotton. The fabric is densely woven to the limit and repels water, so under a little rain, there is no need for an umbrella. It also has a suppleness that can only be achieved with high-quality wool.

Key Method

1. High-density weave
The canvas weave often used for tote bags and sneakers is a rough weave that increases the strength of the fabric. This canvas weave is woven with delicate and fine wool yarns in a high-density weave.

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Recipes

2. Pressing
Woven wool canvas is pressed in a large kiln like a pressure cooker to give it a fine texture. This is like ironing a shirt to make it crispy. If the pressing is too strong, the fabric will shine too bright, so it’s about finding the right balance.

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3. Coating
Finally, a water-repellent finish is applied to the fabric. Coating the cloth makes the surface more resilient and water-repellent.

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Recipes
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Recipes

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