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MATERIAL MATTERS

By hand

By hand

軽快な着心地とエレガンス。それらを両立するのが、ハンドソーイングで仕立てられたコートやジャケット。極細のウール繊維による糸を高密度の2重織で仕上げた生地は、ふっくらとした質感とナチュラルなストレッチ感をもちます。

Creative Direction by kontakt
Cinematography and Photography by Junpei Kato
Video editing by Gorilla Editors
Music composed by H. Takahashi
Mixing & mastering by Kohei Oyamada

ウールに特化した工場で作られる生地は、原糸の整経からはじまり、製織、染色、染色整理など約30以上の工程を経てつくられます。それぞれの工程は決して画一的ではなく、生地の特性やそれがどのようなデザインで用いられるかによって都度手法を変えながら、理想とする生地に向けた試行錯誤が続きます。

By hand
By hand
By hand

例えば、使用する糸の本数や巻き方。細部一つひとつの決定は、服の佇まいに影響します。理想としたのは、均一に見えて、よく見ると不揃いでゆらゆらと揺れるような生地と色彩。その“ゆらぎ”が着る人のスタイルや環境に自然と馴染む佇まいを生む。それは、AURALEEのマテリアルへの深い関心と職人の知恵によるいくつもの対話によって紡がれるものです。

By hand
By hand
By hand

その細部への意識は、縫製の現場へと引き継がれます。雄大な山々を望む工房では、リバー製法を採用しています。接結した2重織の生地を1枚として縫い立てる技法は、裏地を省略することができるため、生地の厚みが出ず、繊細でエレガントなフォルムとソフトな着心地を生みます。

By hand

リバー仕立ては、ほとんどの作業を手縫いで行います。前端、裾、フラップ、アームホール、襟裏や内側のシーム。それらを一針一針手作業で縫っていく。熟練の職人でも1着のコートを縫い上げるまでに10時間以上を要する非常に細かな作業の連続です。

By hand
By hand
By hand

ある職人が言います。
「本当に些細なこと。誰も気に留めないところをしっかり作るからこそ、着たときに美しくなる」と。

By hand

By hand

Lightweight comfort and elegance. When it comes to coats and jackets, the best way to reach these features is hand sewing. Skilled craftsmanship, but also high quality fabrics: made of ultra-fine wool yarns in a high-density double-weave, it will bring a soft texture and natural stretch to the garments.

Creative Direction by kontakt
Cinematography and Photography by Junpei Kato
Video editing by Gorilla Editors
Music composed by H. Takahashi
Mixing & mastering by Kohei Oyamada

In a factory specializing in wool, fabrics go through more than 30 different processes: starting with the warping of raw yarn, leading to weaving, dyeing, and so on. Depending on the characteristics of the fabric and the type of design, each process will be customized. To achieve the ideal fabric, all production begins with a series of trials.

By hand
By hand
By hand

For example: the number of threads in a fabric and the way they are wound. Each detail affects the appearance of the garment. At first glance, the fabric and colors may look uniform—if you look closely, they are uneven and shimmering. This shimmer creates a look that naturally blends in with the wearer's style and environment. This is the result of many conversations between AURALEE and their craftsmen, sharing a deep interest in materials, and wisdom from years of experience.

By hand
By hand
By hand

This attention to detail also applies to the sewing process. Called river tailoring, this technique of sewing two layers together as a single piece of fabric eliminates the need for a lining, thereby reducing the thickness of the fabric and creating a delicate, elegant fit with a soft touch.

By hand

With river tailoring, most of the work is done by hand, stitch by stitch: front edges, hems, flaps, armholes, collar backs, and inside seams. To sew up one coat, this extremely detailed process requires more than 10 hours of work, even for experienced craftsmen.

By hand
By hand
By hand

According to the craftsmen:
“It really is about the small things. It's the little things that no one pays attention to that make a garment beautiful.”

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