Cashmere, often referred to as the ‘jewel of fibres’ due to its rarity and delightful texture, is particularly cherished at Auralee, alongside cotton and wool. Auralee also uses baby cashmere, known for its smooth cuticle surface.

The thickness of fibres is denoted as μ (microns). Wool measures about 25μ, cashmere around 15μ, and baby cashmere approximately 13μ. This comparison highlights that baby cashmere is an exceptionally fine and soft fibre. This rare material can only be harvested once from cashmere goats under one year old. It is renowned for its silky texture and elegant sheen. With time, it becomes even more comfortable to wear, almost as if it envelops the body in warm air.

Designer Iwai also expresses his deep affection for cashmere, stating, ‘High-quality cashmere knitwear is a luxury that can be effortlessly worn and maintains its elegance even after a long time. You can truly feel it when it touches your skin. It could be worn every day because it feels so delightful.’

This journey marked the third time Auralee visited their cashmere producers. It was filled with awe-inspiring natural landscapes, encounters with nomadic herders who lead simple lives while coexisting with nature, warm hospitality, which is a tradition in Mongolia, and the fresh meat dishes and dairy products generously offered by them. Returning here after several years, Iwai expressed his gratitude for these enduring elements and once again shared the reasons for visiting this distant land, Mongolia.

‘I was in Paris until last week for Fashion Week. The fashion show is the culmination of the creative process, a moment of revelation. It's fortunate that the week after, I can return to the very beginning of the creative process and start thinking about the next collection.

When I have direct conversations with the producers, I can truly grasp how special cashmere is. There is passion in their craftsmanship. I believe there have been subtle changes before and after my first visit here—changes that people who wear our clothes can sense. So, even though there might not be any major obvious discoveries this time, it is important for me to notice the more delicate changes and seek new insights. It might be a slight difference in the feel of the raw wool, or how the colours appear differently in the summer light. Film directors like Yasujiro Ozu and Hong Sang-soo often focus on common everyday life, but each of their works offers a unique perspective and story. There's something special about each day, and I aspire to harness these small realisations in my creative process.’

Cashmere goats that thrive in regions with extreme temperature variations, are protected by their coarse guard hairs on the outside and soft down hairs on the inside. Nomadic herders use large combs to collect only the down hairs that naturally shed when the cold season passes. The raw cashmere they collect is then sent to a sorting facility in Ulaanbaatar. Cashmere goat down, which has adapted to harsh environments, is a miraculous material that provides warmth in winter and coolness in summer.

The machines used for cleaning and drying emits steam and roaring noises. Like a meticulous collaboration between machinery and artisans, it takes time for the raw cashmere to reach the state before it becomes yarn, known as ‘sliver’. The wild raw cashmere, rich in oil and mixed with impurities, as seen at the camps of nomadic herders, undergoes a transformation into a lightweight, fluffy, and soft cashmere that feels like clouds during the manufacturing process at the factory.

The subsequent steps include dyeing, spinning, knitting, sewing, and final processing… From the nomadic herders in the Gobi Desert, through various processes and the hands of numerous artisans, a single piece of knitwear finally makes its way to Auralee stores.