MATERIAL MATTERS

Recipes Hard Twist Wool Viyella

ふわふわ、トロトロ、パリッと。
同じ素材から生まれたウエアも
ものづくりの工夫によって
驚くほど違う表情を見せます。

風通しがよく、吸湿性や消臭抗菌に優れた
ウールは、冬は暖かく夏は涼しい機能素材。
今季ラインナップする夏のウールを
ものづくりの現場から紐解きます。

Photography by Misa Asanuma
Illustration by Pol Montserrat
Edit and text by kontakt
Spring Summer 2023

風と踊るウールビエラ

Ingredients
Raw material：Wool
Country of origin：Australia
Breed of sheep：Australian Merino
Number of processes：11
Production period：6 months
Serve：Jacket, Shirt & Slacks

冬の素材として知られるウールですが、肌離れがよく風を通すため春夏シーズンも快適な着心地を楽しむことができます。ウールビエラ素材を用いたジャケットやパンツは、軽快な生地ならではの透け感がありながら、表面にシボ加工を施すことで軽すぎないエレガントなドレープが特徴です。

Key Method

１.強撚
生地が薄く緩い織りが特徴のビエラ。本来は、ふんわりと仕上げるのがスタンダードですが、あえて強く撚った糸を使いたっぷりと空気を含ませながら織ることで、生地に独特なシャリ感が生まれます。

糸がどれくらい撚糸されているかを調べる検撚機。デザイナー・岩井と生産を担うテキスタイルデザイナーの協業によって「糸を何回撚るか」をはじめ細部に渡る数値が設定されていきます。

2. シボ加工
織り上がった生地をドラムに入れて回していきます。徐々に織りが緩くなり、表面に自然な凹凸が現れます。このゆらゆらとしたシボ感は、ウエアになったときの馴染みの良さと、軽快なだけではないどろっとした独自の質感につながっています。

例えばドラムを1分間長く回すだけでも生地は表情を変えます。その些細な変化を捉えながらできあがる理想の生地は、熟練の職人の感覚値と度重なるトライ&エラーから生まれます。

強い日差しにあたり、生ぬるい風に吹かれても軽やかに揺れてベタつかない。デザイナー・岩井が目指したのは、そんな夏が似合うウール生地。

Recipes Hard Twist Wool Viyella

Fluffy, thick and crispy.
Garments made from one material
can have a surprisingly different look and feel
thanks to the ingenuity of the manufacturing process.

Airy, hygroscopic, deodorant and antibacterial.
Wool is a functional material that is warm in winter and cool in summer.
The summer wool line-up for this season is unraveled from the manufacturing field.

Photography by Misa Asanuma
Illustration by Pol Montserrat
Edit and text by kontakt
Spring Summer 2023

Wool Viyella dancing with the wind

Ingredients
Raw material: Wool
Country of origin: Australia
Breed of sheep: Australian Merino
Number of processes: 11
Production period: 6 months
Use: Jacket, Shirt & Slacks

Although wool is known as a winter material, it is comfortable to wear during the spring and summer seasons as well, as it is light and airy on the skin. Jackets and pants made of wool Viyella have an elegant drape that is not too light, thanks to the grainy finish on the surface, while still having the transparency of a lightweight fabric.

Key Method

1. Hard-twisted
Viyella is characterized by its thin, loose weave. Although it is standard to make the fabric soft and fluffy, the use of strongly twisted yarns and weaving with plenty of air gives the fabric a unique crisp feel.

A twisting machine to check how much yarn has been twisted. Designer Iwai and the textile designers in charge of production work together to set detailed figures, such as how many times the yarn is twisted.

2. Surface texturing
The woven fabric is placed in a drum and turned. Gradually, the weave loosens, and natural wrinkles appear on the surface. This uneven texture is what gives the fabric its familiarity when worn. It is not only light but also thick.

Even turning the drum for one minute longer can change the look of the fabric. The ideal fabric, which is created by capturing these subtle changes, is the result of the experience from skilled craftsmen and repeated trial and error.

Lightly swaying and non-sticky, even in strong sunlight and in a lukewarm breeze. Designer Iwai's aim was to create a wool fabric that would look good in summer.