Established in 1955. Nihon Homespun is based in Hanamaki City in Iwate Prefecture. Just as the words ‘home’ and ‘spun’ suggests, it was originally knitted from yarn that was sheared, dyed and hand spun by sheep farmers in Scotland and Ireland, who wore outerwear and scarves made from these fabrics to beat the cold winter months, and also sold them on the side during slack seasons. After the war, a similar industry also established in Iwate Prefecture as a result of imports of complete sets of weaving machines from Scotland. Even though products are not actually ‘made at home’ at Nihon Homespun, they craft things like artisans rather than operating like a production plant. Unbound by stereotypes, Nihon Homespun’s tweed uses a range of different materials other than wool including silk, rayon, recycled polyester and organic cotton, and is highly recognised by both domestic and international fashion brands. While valuing the ‘gentleness’ that is unique to homespun products that are handmade, the yarn is spun slowly without adding pressure to it. The characteristics of the final fabric are soft and fluffy with plenty of air, warm, comfortable and lightweight.

Auralee used tweed from Nihon Homespun for the first time in the 2022-23AW collection. When Iwai, the designer saw the finished outerwear, trousers, and one-piece dresses, he commented, ‘The garments are comfortable to wear even though it is voluminous and has such a great atmosphere to them. Especially since there will be more days where people will wear more weighty clothing during the winter, it is convenient to have something so lightweight and comfortable like this⁠—it might help to change our mood when people cannot be bothered to wear coats when they go out.’

The colour is an earth colour that is weaved mainly by grey and brown heather twisted yarn. Many different types of yarn are used and even the designers themselves cannot fully foresee the end colour until the garment is finished. However, the yarn gives the planar fabric depth and dimension.

‘If the yarn is good the fabric will be good’—this is what Kanji Kikuchi, the founder of Nihon Homespun says repeatedly. That is why the fabric produced this time is also distinctive to Auralee, as one can feel both the firmness and softness of the yarn, as well as the unevenness from the differences in shape. Our relationship with them is not just a so-called client order, but this homespun tweed is made as a result of collaboration. What kind of people are they and what are the thoughts they put into the making process? We visited NIHON HOMESPUN in Hanamaki City, Iwate Prefecture, with designer Iwai.