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デザイナーは半年ごとに発表するコレクションの合間を縫い、まだ見ぬ最高品質の素材を求めて旅に出ます。
2020 FALL WINTER COLLECTIONで特に注目している素材の一つ、「アルパカ」の生産背景に触れるため、アマゾンの熱帯雨林やマチュピチュで有名なペルーを訪れました。

In the middle of February 2020, AURALEE designer Ryota Iwai took a break from the usual seasonal collection preparation, to travel across the globe in a continuation of his search for the highest quality materials. His travels lead him to Peru, famous for its Amazon rainforest, Machu Picchu, and the Alpaca. Alpaca was one of the materials we focused on and featured in the Fall Winter 2020 collection, and the trip was an exploration to research and take a closer glimpse into the production of this unique material.

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アルパカは、主に南米アンデス山脈の高原地帯で放牧されていますが、全体のアルパカの70％はペルーに生息していると言います。富士山よりはるかに高い海抜5000メートルの高地では、夏は40度、厳冬期はマイナス20度にまで達します。その厳しい環境下で育ったアルパカの毛は、なんとウールの8倍もの保温性を持つと言われています。また、暑い時には余計な熱を発散するという天然の温度調節機能も持っています。

Alpacas graze mainly in the highlands of the Andes Mountains of South America, but 70% of all alpacas are said to be found in Peru.
With an elevation at an altitude of 5,000 meters above sea level, far higher than Mount Fuji, the temperature in their environment can reach up to 40℃ in the summer and down to -20℃ in the harsh winter months. It is said that the alpaca's hair, through these severe conditions, is eight times more heat-retaining than normal wool, while also possessing natural thermoregulatory characteristics that dissipate excess heat during hot weather.

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アルパカの放牧ALPACA GRAZING

アンデスの雄大な湿地帯を車で駆けていると、時折何十頭ものアルパカの群れに出くわします。草原の緑とアルパカの白の美しいコントラストが印象的でした。
アルパカは品種や毛の色ごとに区画に分けられ、それぞれに最適な方法で放牧されています。

Driving through the majestic wetlands of the Andes, we occasionally came across dozens of alpacas, the beautiful contrast between the green of the grasslands and the white of the alpacas was a truly striking image.
The alpacas are divided into plots according to breed and coat color, and graze in the areas that are best suited to the needs of their breed.

毛の選別HAIR SCREENING

一頭の中でも部位によって細い毛や太い毛、色の違いなどがあり、職人たちはそれらを見た目と指先の感覚だけで選別します。この選別作業こそが最も重要で、熟練の職人の技は機械よりも正確だと言われており、伝統的に権威のある職業と位置付けられています。

The process of working with the alpaca hair is unique, time consuming, and requires high levels of skill. Artisans sort out the hairs of the animal, based off of fineness, part of the animal, and color. This is the most important part of the sorting process, and the eyes and hands of these skilled artisans is said to be more accurate than that of machines, their trade is understandably respected as a very important profession.

私たちが今回訪れたアルパカの研究所では、この一連の流れを徹底した管理体制で行なうと同時に、現地の遊牧民たちの飼育や刈り取り等の技術指導にも尽力していました。
アルパカの品質向上はもちろん、遊牧民たちがより豊かな生活ができるよう、公正な手段で利益を還元していく仕組み作りに取り組んでいます。
過酷な環境と美しい自然、生きるために家畜と暮らしてきた遊牧民と新しい牧畜家の弛まぬ努力が、極上の素材を生んでいるのです。

We also visited an alpaca research center, a team who not only carries out numerous thorough studies, but also gives back to the community and land through their great efforts to teach local peoples how to raise and work with the alpacas, in a sustainable and humane way, along with fostering other techniques.
In addition to improving the quality of life for the alpacas themselves, the center’s groundbreaking work creates a system that returns profits from the alpaca industry to the local nomads in a fair manner so that they can lead more prosperous lives.
The harsh environment, the tireless efforts of both the nomads and new herders, and most importantly the natural livestock culminate to create a truly special material.

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紡績SPINNING

選別した毛を洗浄機にかけて汚れを取り除き、ふわふわの太い繊維の束にまとめます。束ねた繊維をピンと張って撚りをかけていき、一本の糸の完成です。

The selected hairs are washed mechanically to remove dirt, and then grouped into bundles of thick, fluffy fibers. The bundled fibers are strung and twisted to create single pieces of yarn.

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アルパカの毛はウールと比べると繊維が非常に細いためとても軽く、独特なハリと艶やかな光沢があります。2020 FALL WINTER COLLECTIONでは、その個性を生かした表情豊かなニットや生地を作りました。
ふんわりと空気を孕む様にアルパカをループ状に織り上げたニット。しっかり起毛させた後に熱を加えてギュッと縮めた、フェルトの様な風合いのニット。ドレッドの様な螺旋状の毛を持つスーリーアルパカという希少種を使用したシャギーなブルゾンは、しっとりとしたシルクのような光沢を持っています。
カラーパレットはAURALEEらしい淡いイエローやミント、奥行きのあるチャコールやトップベージュ。
服装が重たくなりがちな寒い日も、AURALEEのアルパカで軽やかな装いを。

For the Fall Winter 2020 collection, we have utilized the alpaca hair to create an expressive fabric that emphasizes its natural character.
The knitwear is made of soft and airy alpaca woven in a looped pattern. The resulting knitwear has a felt-like texture, made by raising the wool and then carefully heating and shrinking it tightly. The seasons standout shaggy blouson is made of the rare breed of suri alpaca, who possess spiral dread-like hairs and has a moist, silky sheen. The color palette for the generously shaped blouson is uniquely AURALEE, with pale yellow playing with mint, as well as a deep charcoal balanced by top beige.

On a cold day, AURALEE's alpaca items will keep you warm and your hands light. While most winter clothing tends to be heavy, our Alpaca items are airy and lightweight, making for perfect layering pieces to wear in the colder months.

ALPACA ITEMS